Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Poniedzialek...

Yesterday, despite the rain we wandered around the city mooching through some churches, book shops and poking our faces to the windows of museums which were closed (on Mondays all museums are closed).


St. Cathrin's church
The museum for Tadeusz Kantor was open (well the door was ajar which was invitaion enough). We met an interesting characher involved in the archiving of TK's work. Greg introduced me to him and explained I don't speak Polish but I'm learing. He looked me up and down with a winced expression and said to Greg; "she shouldn't bother; you can never understand the soul of a language. It's so depressing! I'll never understand French or English!" He let us sit down at a computer and look through all the photographs of the stage sets, TK's hand drawings of set design ideas, performances, costume design... some of the photographs were from performances during the 40's! His work I can only describe as surreal. The conteporary ballet performance we went to on Sunday night (free!) was in an area which Krakow is about to re-develop with some great contemporary architecture which will become the Crikoteca- a meauseum dedicated to TK and his work.

We stopeed for lunch (obiad) in a traditional "Bar Mleczny"- Milk Bar. The decor was that of a hospital canteen! Ugly laminate as far as the eye could see and lacey curtains hagning over the windows! We ate barszcz, pieorgi and crepes folded around a sweet cheese drizzeled with thick strawberry sauce and piles of fluffy cream. The food was FANTASTIC (perhaps the best we have had so far!) The whole meal cost about $3AU!!
At Bar Mleczny.
Afterwards we went to the centre of the square to the "wool market" for a "sumptuous epicurian" experience: coffe, tea and vanilla slice ... the building, the decor and the location were brilliant, but the drinks and food were so far below average! and it came to $20AU!! I think we paid the rent for them!
At "Noworolski Cafe" - order a glass of water only!
To walk off all the sugar we just consumed, we went into the XIX century city quarters. Lots of imposing buildings, plenty of secession too.
Did not realise that all museums are closed on Mondays, so we just zig-zagged through the streets. Ended the day at my friends drinking cofees and Grand Mariner, playing with her St. Bernard's (dog, not a slave-saint), cat and an assortment of rodents.
Got picked up by my mum, who mysteriously materialised next door after a 70'th birthday meeting with Norman Davies. The doo took place around the corner from where we were and we scored a lift home.
Today, more rain... procrastinating...blogging...off to the museums.
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Main Square in the rain

2 comments:

Col said...

All that rain is a bit of a bore. But obviously lots to see indoors. Chuckled at Leece's comparison of the food in the 2 different places. Yep, it's a rock solid rule: the quality of the food usually has a direct correlation with the view or the popularity of a location for tourists.

Want reports on street food and more people shots ta.

Anonymous said...

Is that Perogi and beetroot soup?
Looks like you are having a fun time...
Hope you are going great.

We got married by the way. If you want become my facebook friend to see the photo's...

Geoff Irvin

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